Laois pub linked to Ballymaloe O'Connells gets revamp green light

The Laois pub that provided the culinary inspiration for two of Ireland's best-known chefs looks set to get a new lease of life with the granting of planning permission by Laois County Council.

Darina Allen and her brother Rory O'Connell, of Ballymaloe Cookery School fame, spent their early years in Cullohill where their mother Elizabeth ran The Sportsmans Inn and also raised eight children on her own after the death of their Richard at an early age.

It was in the pub, which was also well known for food, where Elizabeth instilled a passion for cooking in her children who would go on to build global reputations for their culinary skills.

"Our home was always full of the delicious smells of cooking. Among many things, mummy taught each and every one of us how to bake and roast, braise and stew and the joy of sharing food and sitting around the kitchen table with family and friends," wrote Darina in a dedication when her mother died in 2008.

While Rory and Darina would move onto pastures new in Cork at Ballymaloe, the pub was run by other members of the O'Connell family until Covid-19 but its doors have not opened since the pandemic hit.

The O'Connells had been the proprietors of since 1916, when they took over the business from the Baird family. It changed hands recently when it was purchased by the retired Laois Offaly Garda Chief Superintendent John Scanlan.

He applied earlier in 2024 to revamp and reopen the premises, also known as O'Connells, with the aim of reviving its reputation as a gastro-pubs.

The applicants also believe the Cullohill community and county will benefit, jobs will be created and the building saved from dereliction.

Fintan Dunne Architect outlined the plans drawn up by The Sportsmans Inn Portdrine Limited at the start of March in a letter of introduction to Laois County Council.

It sought permission for a single-storey extension to the rear and side of the pub along with internal modifications to the existing part single/part two-storey building which is also a residence. The work will comprise a dining room, kitchen, toilets, and associated back-up spaces, a car-parking area, an effluent treatment system and percolation area. The existing first-floor residential unit will also be divided into two separate units for staff. Solar panels are also planned.

The applicants stated that the O'Connell family have become synonymous with excellent food and hospitality in Ireland, with members of the family having international reputations.

The letter explains the impact of closure and what reopening will mean.

"This has left a deep chasm in the community from a social and practical point of view. The applicants see an opportunity here to acquire this established business and under new ownership to progress the entity to a new stage, re-establishing the social focal point in the village, and continuing excellence in the provision of food, drink and hospitality. MORE BELOW PICTURE.

Pictured: Darina Allen at a Laois Taste event in Ballykilcavan Brewery in 2023. Pic: Michael Scully

"They also see the opportunity to build on the historical aspect of food production in this premises, and to strengthen it by the sourcing of the best of local Irish produce and its presentation through the kitchen to a very high standard, thus showcasing the culinary skills available also in the area. Having such a business re-established here in Cullohill will help to draw even more tourists to the area and enhance their experience of the area," it stated.

The letter says the aim of creating the new spaces required will bring the establishment into the modern era, while retaining all that is good in the existing fabric.

The council have been told that the applicants have enlisted the expertise of Mr Paul Haffey of Lisburn Co Antrim, who it is claimed, is known widely for his track record in the hospitality sector, to lead the re-design of the premises.

Further information on the application was sought and received with conditional permission granted on July 12.

The pub was put on the market in 2022 for an asking price of €300,000.